Objects of Affection: Bridge & Burn Fall 2010 Collection

Portland’s Bridge & Burn just released the Fall 2010 collection online, and it’s a solid combination of winners from their debut earlier this year along with some great new offerings. True to form, the collection as a whole is marked by clean lines and an eye toward functionality.

Waxed cotton jackets still feature heavily, which is very good news in my book. They’ve also kept the contrast linings–in a whole range of fabrics including gingham and oxford cloth–that I’ve been a fan of from the start.

There’s a wider range of twill and wool outerwear options in the mix now, with new shapes like a simplified bomber jacket. Certainly a welcome development. I actually paid the label’s booth a visit at ENK a few months back, and can say from personal experience that the twill they’re using is very nice. And though I haven’t had the chance to see any of them in person, the wool pieces look spot on. That charcoal gray five button blazer? I dig.

There’s also whole new element at play, as the brand is making its first foray into shirting with this drop. Plaids and checks are the name of the game on the pattern front, with a number of solids for good measure. For fabrics, things are largely seasonally appropriate: lots of flannel, and lots of wool. Also, quite reasonably, some cotton pieces that could easily find their way into consistent rotation even in the warmer months. Summer 2011 is gonna be all about woodsy plaids. You heard it here first.

Available online now, so hit it up.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Bridge & Burn)

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(capsule) NY: Perfecto by Schott NYC

Updated One-Star Perfectos and a vintaged horsehide Cafe Racer. Mmmmmm….

Schott NYC absolutely nailed it with the new Perfecto by Schott line that showed this past Monday/Tuesday at (capsule) NY.

Designed by Greg Chapman (who, aside from being talented as hell, is a genuinely nice guy) the line draws on Schott NYC’s venerable heritage with updated takes on classic pieces. Lines are slimmed down, fabrics and leathers are played with a bit, and it all comes together into a collection that certainly vies for my personal “best in show” award for (capsule) NY as a whole.

Among the collection you’ll find takes on a number of leather jacket styles, including the double riders jacket (made famous by the original Perfecto), the A2 bomber, and the racer jacket in both cafe and spread-collar. In terms of materials, you’ve got a bunch of options: Horsehide, cowhide, a goddamn beautiful suede (it’s soft as hell, but heavy and sturdy at the same time), waxcloth, and heavy twill.

There’s also a good deal of variety when it comes to vintage effects on the leather. I’ve mentioned a few times that I’m generally weary of this practice, but if you take a look at that black/brown marbling effect on a couple of the jackets below, I think you’ll come to the same conclusion I did. In this instance, it works.

The waxcloth on this jacket is light and pliable, but still very clearly durable. A perfect jacket for spring weather… Perfecto in a lightweight cowhide. I could see this becoming a standby in my own collection…

The marbled black/brown vintaging I mentioned earlier. Clearly, I was fascinated with this…

Talon zips on some of the models. Old skool for the win…

There’s that fantastic suede…

I think the far right is actually a ladies’ model. Very cool…

There’s also a very strong portion of the collection that draws on the other end of Schott’s expertise, with mountain parkas, pea coats and toggle coats. These pieces are done in deadstock nylon/poplin from the company’s storerooms, selvage raw denim from Cone Mills White Oak, and some impressively sturdy cotton duck in a few different colors (eye-searing orange among them).

Also: I really dig the linings they used in this collection in general. Tartan, gingham, and plaid galore. Icing on the cake.

Actually not sure if this was just a fabric sample for linings or if they’re offering a scarf, and neglected to ask. If it’s just a sample, I humbly suggest they offer a scarf. If it’s a scarf, I want one…

Cone Mills White Oak. Quality, American-made fabrics…

Geeked out on the selvage detailing. I’m glad they had the good sense to keep it subtle…

I didn’t think I’d like this when I first saw preview shots last week. I was oh so wrong. I want one for myself. Like, yesterday…

Many of the components like the toggles here were actually sourced from deadstock within Schott’s factory in Elizabeth, NJ…

The line arrives for real in Spring 2011. Prices will land between $400 and $1,000. When you’re talking about the top end of that range representing the cost of an American-made horsehide jacket, it’s really damn reasonable bang for your buck.

Start saving them ducats, kids. If you’re anything like me, you’re gonna want more than one of these pieces.

—Jonathan

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Objects of Affection: Billykirk Bike Bag

My affection for my own (leather) Billykirk bag is well documented, so I won’t go into any further details on how much I dig the brand here. I’ll just say that if I didn’t already have my own Billykirk piece, I’d be seriously considering this guy.

The Bike Bag is comprised primarily of canvas (waxed on the navy colorway, untreated on the natural version), with leather accents and a webbed cotton handle. It looks have two front pockets, one side pocket, and a zipped interior pocket in addition to the main compartment. A dual buckle closure keeps everything nice and snug inside.

The front pockets both feature a large box pleat, which means massive capacity when needed. Always nice to have the option.

Despite my affection for all things waxcloth, the natural colorway is actually my favorite in this case. It’s the olive drab canvas accents combined with that deep brown leather, and the way they’re both set off by the natural base color. I’m defenseless against their combined charms.

That said, the navy is a very solid option. Especially for anyone that doesn’t like the slightly grungy look that the natural version will inevitably acquire pretty much immediately. And like I mentioned, you do have the pretty awesome bonus of waxcloth thrown into the mix.

Either option will run you $290, and you can get them both online at Stel’s.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Stel’s)

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Eye Candy: Perfecto by Schott NYC Khaki Waxwear Perfecto Jacket

Schott NYC is coming out with a new line called Perfecto by Schott NYC for Spring 2011. It’s basically a younger, more style-conscious take on some of the company’s greatest hits, and I’ve got to admit I’m pretty damn excited.

There are four jackets in the debut collection (Update) There are a whole bunch of pieces in the new collection, but of the four that Selectism previewed, the waxwear take on the classic Perfecto jacket is the one that really caught my eye. At 26″ long, it’s a bit longer than the traditionally cropped riding jacket, which gives it a more casual vibe that’s easier to wear as a day-to-day jacket. The waxwear, combined with a plaid cotton twill lining, makes for a solid jacket for the Spring and Fall, when it’s not brutally cold. I’m sure the fabric will wear beautifully, too.

Take a look over at Selectism for the full rundown. For now, just a few more pictures to whet your appetite:

The collection will be officially unveiled at (capsule) NYC on July, 19. Many thanks to Selectism for dropping these previews on us early.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Selectism)

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Eye Candy: Property Of… Sam Cycle Bag

The Sam Cycle Bag by Property Of… is a pretty solid option if you’re looking for a waxcloth messenger bag. I just grabbed me one of these in black, but I’m quite partial to the tan color here, as well.

Still waiting on it to ship, but I’ll update when it comes in.

For now, more shots:

The version you see here is available at Blackbird for $285. Click on over if you want one for yourself.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Blackbird)

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Objects of Affection: Hope Jake Coat

Another waxed cotton jacket for you. This one is by Swedish label Hope, and it’s got a distinct “British country gentleman by way of Stockholm city center” vibe. The inspiration and overall feel is similar to your old school waxed cotton jackets by the likes of Barbour, but it’s been slimmed down and dressed up so it will look as at home on the city streets as it does in the countryside.

Despite the revamp, all that rain-protecting utility and hard-wearing durability of the original breed remain. A very nice option for someone who’s wardrobe is a little too modern to reasonably work in one of the classic versions.

Detailing is appropriately minimal: two front patch pockets with flaps, back vents, zip closure with a storm flap, and snap closures on pretty much everything that can be closed. The collar looks like it might be leather, but I can’t say 100%. My favorite detail, though, is the small change pocket on the front forearm. Very Lewis Leathers of you, Hope.

More shots:

Get it in navy at Tres Bien for €356, or score one in black from Aplace for €340.

For you US kids, keep in mind that there’s a 20% tax that doesn’t apply for non-EU customers. So it works out to around $340-350. That’s a damn steal for a piece like this.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Tres Bien)

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Objects of Affection: Wrath Arcane Motorbike Jacket

I know. It’s nearly June and I’m still featuring jackets. But I came across this piece from Cleveland locals Wrath Arcane and I just couldn’t help myself.

The Motorbike Jacket is a great combination of a relatively simple silhouette with a whole fuckton of interesting detailing, and to top it all off it’s done in a waxed cotton. Since it’s still that time of year in NY when rain is a constant threat and it winds up inexplicably cold at night, something like this could actually prove pretty damn useful in the near future.

On to the detailing, which is what hooked me on this one. It’s got an asymmetrical snap-close front, as well as a front vent (on the right side of the body only, for some reason). Also features twisted seams on the arms, side welt handwarmer pockets, adjuster tabs at the cuffs and waist, and another asymmetrical touch on the back, this time in the form of a harness detail. It might seem like a lot for one jacket, but the clean lines and tan waxed cotton ground the whole affair nicely and it actually works quite well.

Some more shots:

Brigade sells it for $330, but unfortunately they’re out of stock right now. If you can’t wait and absolutely need to get your hands on one, Asos has it as well, but you’ll have to bite the bullet on an extra hundred on the price tag (about $423). Call it the cost of international commerce.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Brigade)

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Ojects of Affection: Bridge & Burn Hoffman Jacket

The looming prospect of continued April showers has me looking for a nice, somewhat lightweight, and (most importantly) water-resistant jacket. The Hoffman jacket from Portland, OR label Bridge & Burn is kinda searing itself into my mind lately, as it’s pretty much spot-on for what I’m seeking.

Made of British Millerain waxed cotton, it’ll keep you dry in soggy conditions while maintaining a distinctly non-tech-gear vibe (I always feel strange in those hyper-futuristic space fabric raincoats). Features four patch pockets on the front with hidden button closures, as well as side entry handwarmer pockets (under the lower patch pockets).

It’s also got a hood (always handy) and a two way front zip. My favorite details, though? The blue gingham lining and the red contrast stitching around the buttonholes on the cuff. Fun, but appropriately understated.

Some more shots:

The Hoffman is available online at Bridge & Burn’s online shop ($235), or from Portland boutique Frances May ($220).

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Frances May)

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Objects of Affection: Vanson x Epaulet Waxed Triton Jacket

I’ve been anxiously awaiting this one all week, and it certainly does not disappoint: The Vanson x Epaulet Waxed Triton Jacket. Take a look.

Yep. That is one goddamn handsome jacket.

Made of heavyweight waxed cotton canvas, this piece is very water resistant, which is handy considering the whole “April showers” deal we’re all likely to be subjected to over the course of the Spring. And since that attractive Royal Stewart tartan lining is 100% cotton, the jacket will breathe, which means you won’t overheat. Again, handy. (Mike from Epaulet, who modeled the jacket in the current warm weather for the fit photos, confirmed that he was actually pretty comfortable while doing the shoot.)

More details: 4 snap-closure patch pockets (top left is slanted, or a “map pocket”); black hardware on the exterior, with a heavy gauge brass zipper underneath the storm flap; two interior button-closure pockets; heavy leather neck liner (Vanson is, after all, a leather company); buckle and strap tab closure on the collar; slightly cropped length; zero logos or branding on the exterior.

The strap and buckle closure, and that heavy leather liner

The view from the front

There’s that lining again

The back of the jacket. Simple = good

And a fit pic to round things out

It’s $425 from Epaulet exclusively. For what you’re getting, that price is an absolute steal.

Move quick. There are only 14 units available total. (Talk about putting some truth to the whole “limited edition” idea.)

—Jonathan

(All images courtesy of Epaulet)

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