Objects of Affection: Bridge & Burn Fall 2010 Collection

Portland’s Bridge & Burn just released the Fall 2010 collection online, and it’s a solid combination of winners from their debut earlier this year along with some great new offerings. True to form, the collection as a whole is marked by clean lines and an eye toward functionality.

Waxed cotton jackets still feature heavily, which is very good news in my book. They’ve also kept the contrast linings–in a whole range of fabrics including gingham and oxford cloth–that I’ve been a fan of from the start.

There’s a wider range of twill and wool outerwear options in the mix now, with new shapes like a simplified bomber jacket. Certainly a welcome development. I actually paid the label’s booth a visit at ENK a few months back, and can say from personal experience that the twill they’re using is very nice. And though I haven’t had the chance to see any of them in person, the wool pieces look spot on. That charcoal gray five button blazer? I dig.

There’s also whole new element at play, as the brand is making its first foray into shirting with this drop. Plaids and checks are the name of the game on the pattern front, with a number of solids for good measure. For fabrics, things are largely seasonally appropriate: lots of flannel, and lots of wool. Also, quite reasonably, some cotton pieces that could easily find their way into consistent rotation even in the warmer months. Summer 2011 is gonna be all about woodsy plaids. You heard it here first.

Available online now, so hit it up.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Bridge & Burn)

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Eye Candy: Surface to Air Shirts

For your late Sunday evening viewing pleasure, a couple of nice shirting options from Surface to Air.

First up, the Wire shirt. Blue oxford cloth with a selvage stripe detail on the chest pocket. Available at Gargyle, and on sale for $120 (down from $145).

Part two: a light blue, mini-stripe number available at Frances May. This one’s regular price at $145, but considering how damn good it looks, the $25 difference seems very well worth it.

And that’s all for now, kids.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Gargyle and Frances May)

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Objects of Affection: Taylor Stitch Shirts

Taylor Stitch operates out of San Francisco, CA and produces some wonderful shirting options with top notch single needle tailoring techniques and an attention to detail and construction that kind of blows my mind.

But despite the fact that the quality is (understandably) going to be the strongest selling point for a lot of folks, I’m actually more interested in the fit and styling. Specifically at the bottom hem.

If you take a look at the photos above, you’ll notice that the side saddles are cut much lower than your average button up, while the shirttails are much shorter. In fact, it’s pretty close to completely squared off all around. And if you’re hyper-meticulous, you’ll also notice that there’s 8 buttons on the front as opposed to the traditional 7.

Why? Well, there are a couple of reasons that can’t really be placed in rank order, but work better as a list. So just keep in mind that I’m not saying one thing is better than any other here, just pointing out all the ways in which this take on shirting rocks:

1. The look. A shorter, squared off shirt looks much better untucked. And the 8th button means you’re not going to be flashing your navel all willy nilly around the place like some sort of abdominal pervert.
2. The function. The longer side saddles make it easier to tuck in your shirt and have it stay tucked in. Considering the fact that I’ve been dealing with the sides of my shirt slipping out of my waistband all damn day today, that sounds fucking perfect to me.

My personal favorites of the current ready to wear lineup (they do custom jobs as well) are the Antique White Oxford and the Japanese Madras. Both feature Japanese milled cotton and Corozo buttons, and both  just beg to be worn to pretty much all the time.

More shots of each:

The oxford will run you $150, and the madras checks in at $165. Both available direct from the Taylor Stitch folks, just click those links and get your shirting on.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Taylor Stitch)

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Outfitted: Run of the Mill Shop + Mark McNairy Edition

After much anticipation, Run of the Mill Shop has finally opened it’s doors (in the proverbial sense, as it’s all online). ROTM is the product of three fellow men’s style bloggers: Lawrence of Sartorially Inclined,  Jeremy of Start With Typewriters, and Jon of Getting Beat Like You Stole Something. They decided to set up a venue to showcase some of their personal favorite gear, and that’s how this beast was born.

I’m pleased to say, they’ve come out swinging with a capsule collection of six exclusive pieces by Mark McNairy. Though they aren’t all 100% up my alley, they’re all damn fine items in their own right (just because I personally can’t pull off digi-camo cargos doesn’t mean there aren’t those out there who can rock them with panache). And fully half of the pieces–the three you see above–are spot on for my tastes. They’d also play perfectly together in a single outfit. That is pretty awesome.

And it’s also the inspiration for the debut installment of a new segment showcasing pieces that just beg to be worn together. We’ll see how often it actually happens (hopefully a lot), but that’s a question for later. For now, welcome to Outfitted: Run of the Mill Shop + Mark McNairy Edition.

In terms of my reasoning for this outfit, I just think it’s a great combination of old-school inspiration and modern execution. All the pieces are, at their core at least, classics: You’ve got an oxford, chinos, and longwings. But there are definitely some twists and turns along the way. And that’s what keeps it interesting.

Let’s start from the top.

The Red University Stripe Oxford ($135) is actually genuinely classic through and through. The ROTM/McNairy team just had the presence of mind to give it to us in a decent fit and Japanese cotton. Both a plus.

It’s also kind of an anchor piece for the entire look. Because it isn’t too far out, you’re able to get a bit more leeway on the pants and shoes without coming off garish or looking like you’re trying too hard.

And that leeway is a good thing, because the shirt allows the Navy 8 Pocket Cargo ($238) to pop instead of fighting with them for attention. The reason I dig the navy version so much and wouldn’t go for the aforementioned digital camo version of these pants is because I tend to feel that a piece should usually only push the envelope in one aspect. Lots of adornment or general construction-based detailing like, say, 8 freaking pockets? Probably want to go for a more subdued hue like navy.

But the digi camo is pretty much balls out on both fronts, and that’s too much for me. Now, this is just my own personal take on how I’d choose to dress myself. Some people can really rock the go-to-hell combo of eye-blistering print and intense construction. A fuck-ton of pockets on an otherwise classic navy chino is enough of a twist for for me though.

Aside from the way they work in terms of demand for attention, I think the proportions of the shirt and pants match well. Both seem pretty damn trim, and the shirt looks to have long enough tails that you could tuck it in to a low-rise pant (8″ in the front) without constantly having it slip out. Practicality!

On to the shoes: the Loden Green Suede Longwing ($350):

Yes, they’re green suede, which you’d think would be kind of nuts until you see them and realize it just happens to look really good and notice that this particular Loden Green pairs very well with the navy pants. The natural crepe sole is so neutral that it could work with just about anything. But here it lightens up the look of the shoe overall while giving them a sort of military-explorer feel (desert boots anyone?) to go with the cargos. The round hiking boot style laces keep the explorer-cum-style-junkie vibe going all the way to the end.

In terms of construction: it’s all gonna be top notch. The shirt and pants are both made in the USA, the shoes are bench made in England and feature a Goodyear welt, and I’ve heard nothing but good things about McNairy’s quality standards.

Get yourself over to the site to check out the other pieces (there are double monks) before they sell out. Which I’m pretty certain they’re all going to do.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Run of the Mill Shop)

Ed’s Note: I’m usually anti-cargo and much more for shortwings than longwings, so I’m especially impressed by how much I like these pieces. Well played indeed, ROTM and Mr. McNairy.

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Objects of Affection: Our Legacy Blue Lino Oxford

It is 100% about the details on this oxford button-down from Our Legacy.

It’s pretty traditional in terms of basic styling and fit.  But the blue linen has a wonderful and unique look to it:  something in between a traditional cotton oxford cloth and a chambray, to my eye. And the mother of pearl buttons add a nice touch of refinement to a fabric that tends to come off quite casual due to its tendency to wrinkle.

The real kicker, for me, is the 1940′s-style placket. Since the bottom-most front button is hidden, the chevron finishing on the bottom of the placket is able to stand out a bit more. Still subtle, but the kind of thing the detail-obsessed are bound to notice.

More looks:

It’ll run you $168 from Penelope’s online store. Get on it now, because from what I’ve seen, Our Legacy’s stuff is not long for the retails racks before the masses snatch it up for themselves.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Penelope’s)

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Objects of Affection: Gant Rugger Oxford Chino in Gray

They may be sold out at Blackbird, but these Gant Rugger Oxford Chinos have seared themselves into my mind over the last couple of days. The execution is slim, simple, and done up in a gray oxford cloth that’s dark enough to suit my denim-leaning tastes while staying light enough to refrain from sucking up sunlight like crazy. In other words: well suited to my own inclinations, but also well suited to the summer months. That’s me sold.

Since the Gant Rugger flagship just opened this past week on Bleecker Street, I’m crossing my fingers and heading over there this afternoon to try to snag a pair for myself. At the very least, I can find out what size I take and pray that Zappos has that size in stock.

More shots for you:

At $98, they’re not super cheap, but they’re certainly not going to break the bank. Also available in Sea Blue option that’s a bit too light for me, but a very nice pant nonetheless.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Blackbird)

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Objects of Affection: Uniqlo Oxford Cloth Button Down

Uniqlo‘s oxford cloth button down may be the most indispensable basic in my entire wardrobe. Is it on par with the sort of quality you’ll find in something like the Epaulet x Styleforum shirts from Friday? No. But it’s also $19.50. So if I wear one to a party and someone near me is over-gesticulating with a glass of red wine in hand, my blood pressure doesn’t shoot right through the roof. Not that I’d want to be forced to replace my shirt, but at less than twenty bones I certainly could.

The details are pretty much what you’d probably expect. Button down collar, white buttons and stitching, front-left chest pocket, box pleating at the upper back, a locker loop, and a classic shirttail hem.

Some more looks:

It comes in at least six colors: white (of course), light gray, dark gray, purple, blue, pink, and electric blue. There may be more, I’m just going off what I’ve personally seen.

I’ve got four colors for myself (white, dark gray, purple, and blue). My favorite, far and away, is the dark gray. I’m just stupid for dark gray. No better explanation than that.

Some color/texture closeups of my collection (white seemed pointless to photograph, so it’s not included):

Like I said before, it’s $19.50, which a genuine steal. Uniqlo hasn’t jumped on the e-commerce bandwagon, so you’re stuck calling them (877-4-UNIQLO) or going to the sole US brick and mortar location in Soho in Manhattan (they’re opening another in Midtown in the near future, though).

—Jonathan

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