Heads Up: (capsule) NY is January 17th and 18th

A heads up for everyone in and around New York, as well as the very devoted who are willing to travel: (capsule) NY is happening this upcoming Monday and Tuesday (1/17 & 1/18). I’ll be there on Monday, and I’m really damn excited about it. The list of brands I want to check out is pretty much as long as the list of attendees below, but here’s a few I’m especially looking forward to (just for fun):

• 18 Waits, Ally Capellino, Blk Pine Workshop, Bass, Billy Reid, CXXVI, Eastland Made in Maine, Garbstore, Grenson, Heritage Research, Highland, Mark McNairy, Monitaly, Norse Projects, S.N.S. Herning, Sunny Sports, Taylor Supply, The Generic Man, Velour, and Yuketen

I’m absolutely certain I’ll be amending that list to be significantly longer once I check out some of the unfamiliar names, and, of course, once I’m at the event itself.

The brand lineup, in it’s full glory:

Be on the lookout for a whole lot of posts in the near future on the A/W ’11 wares being shown by all those fine companies in attendance. And if you’re able to and into it, check out the show itself. It all goes down at 548 West 22nd St.

Hope to see some of you there.

—Jonathan

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Objects of Affection: Sperry Olive Suede / Red Brick Chukkas

In my post on Yuketen a little while back I mentioned that olive drab was gonna be a big thing come fall. Even among the folks at (capsule) NY that were having this discussion, the whole commentary was kinda tongue in cheek: “Trendwatching? Bah!” Well, really more “OK, neat. Moving on.”

BUT! If it turns out to be true, and the kind of stuff that comes out of the movement is anything like these chukkas from Sperry? That “OK, neat” is gonna turn into a resounding “Hell yes!” real quick.

It’s a damn fine color, and it’s so damn perfectly autumnal on a suede boat chukka.

Throw in red brick soles that really pop in contrast to the olive upper, and I’m just done for.

Want.

Get ‘em for $120 at Need Supply.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Need Supply)

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(capsule) NY: ML Brown & Co.

This buckle is what originally drew me to the ML Brown & Co. booth…

To wrap up the (capsule) NY coverage, a few shots from ML Brown & Co.

Mathieu Brown, AKA the “ML Brown” of the company name, is a fellow Brooklyn resident and all around very nice guy that makes a line of belts, wallets, and accessories that are certainly well-deserving of some recognition.

The belts are all done in veggie-tanned cowhide, and finished with aged brass hardware. Some of the detailing tweaks that Mathieu included–like a three-piece keeper (below),  and an unusual, asymmetrical ring closure (above)–were great touches to liven things up while keeping it smart and subtle.

More belts…

One of the coolest things at the ML Brown & Co. booth was actually a one-off production that Mathieu and a friend of his finished off the evening before (capsule) NY. The utility bag below was created because they figured they should have something special for the event. I’m glad they decided to go for it.

Canvas and leather utility bag…

The leather strap system, combined with the laundry-bag-style cord closure at the opening, allows for an enormous amount of variety in carrying configurations. Short carry handles (as shown), over the shoulder, and cross body can all be done easily. Just adjust the length of the main strap at the D-rings up top and then decide if you want to feed it through one, both, or neither of the smaller perpendicular straps.

And because everything’s already secured by the simple cord system, you could probably get pretty inventive if the desire struck. Personally, though, I’d  stick with the configuration here or let the main strap free and just sling it over my shoulder.

The body of the bag is heavyweight cotton canvas. Going by what I know about the belts, I’m thinking that the strap system is veggie tanned cowhide with brass hardware.

ML Brown is stocked at Freeman’s Sporting Club and Ernest Sewn, among a number of other spots. You can also get the main collection stuff (bags, wallets, and small accessories) online. Just hit up the site and click around.

—Jonathan

Ed’s Note: I didn’t actually see the wallets personally. But judging from the quality of the belts and bag, I’m gonna go ahead and take a leap of faith in endorsing them, too.

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(capsule) NY: Ally Capellino

British bag and accessory designer Ally Capellino‘s SS 2011 collection was actually featured here a little while ago. But now that I’ve got my own shots from (capsule) NY, it’s time to take another peek.

I said on the last go around that Capellino really hit the mark with designing pieces that are “timeless, but never boring,” and I’m very pleased to note that this proved entirely true upon in-person inspection of the goods. I’m also happy to report that the veggie tanned leather line was very nice in person. Sturdy leather with a fantastic hand (dare I say “buttery” once more?), it’s the kind of stuff that will develop even more character and personality as it ages.

Picture time:

Natural leather accessories…

And a few more…

Some of the standbys on the right. Veggie tanned natural leather pieces on the right…

The updated Richard. Mentioned this last time, and I still like it…

I took a good few shots of the new veggie tanned natural leather line, especially. It’s a really solid set of pieces, and the leather is really damn nice. I just couldn’t help myself:

Still more pictures:

A special edition denim rucksack for (capsule)…

I was a big fan of this particular card case…

That about sums it up…

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Grenson Shoes

SO RED.

Grenson‘s SS 2011 showing at (capsule) NY was a good chunk of the core collection with some new offerings tossed in as well. The standouts? Lots of brogues (standbys), a few electric red soles (new), and blue suede shortwings (not sure actually).

Basic takeaway? I’m insane for brogues, and they’ve got some great ones. Fuck yeah.

Shots:

I’m a sucker for brogue boots…

And the low top variety…

And the slimmed down take on the former…

A nice take on the desert boot…

Blue suede shortwings. Fuck. Yes.

Ok, so. Yes. I was completely geeking out on the brogues…

Like I said…

Eventually, I got off the brogue kick…

Captoes. Dig it…

A solid showing, indeed. I might need those blue suede guys (shoes or boots) in my life.

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Denime

Denime is a Japanese brand that specializes in high quality jeans, and supplements with jackets, chinos, workwear, sweats, tees, and the like.

Like a lot of Japanese denim companies, Denime is especially appealing to hardcore denim heads because of the quality of the material itself. Japan has some of the best denim mills on the planet, and brands like Denime (and Sugar Cane, Samurai, etc.) are sure to take advantage of this state of affairs. This, along with solid construction, makes for a very sturdy pair of jeans.

Combine the quality in general with a long trek from the other side of the globe, and you’ve got a price around $300 US for stateside fans. Definitely jeans for enthusiasts.

The styling that draws heavily from mid-20th century US blue collar and youth culture, and the cuts are decidedly non-modern. While we’re not talking reproduction level devotion to the originals, some degree of historical accuracy regarding fit is part of the brand’s aesthetic.   So basically: super-specialized Americana, via Japan.

It’s not for everyone, but the quality is undeniable and the vibe of the booth at (capsule) NY was so cool–just check out the huge denim sign they had on display–that I had to snap a couple photos.

Jackets and jeans. So much denim…

Saddle shoes. I believe they were by Standard Issue, but not positive. I do know they’re Japanese made…

Boots. Same manufacturer as the saddle shoes, but made in the US…

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Billy Reid

Billy Reid’s “Moto Jacket.” Really more of a cropped leather pea coat, but awesome nonetheless…

While at (capsule) NY, I got a chance to stop by the Billy Reid booth for a bit and check out the SS 2011 preview.

To give a bit of background: Billy Reid’s aesthetic has a sort of Southern Gentile via downtown New York vibe to it. Certainly steeped in tradition, but with a modern and ever-so-slightly gritty feel. Not dirty, mind you. Just not overly prim and proper.

It’s actually the second time around for Billy Reid (the first iteration ran 1998-2002), but things are looking good for this run. Reid was named GQ’s menswear designer of the year for 2010, and the label is pretty well poised to go massive right now. Judging from the stuff I saw at (capsule) NY, the buzz is well-deserved.

I must admit that I was completely, embarrassingly sidetracked by one piece: the leather “Moto Jacket” (really a cropped pea coat but no worries). While I did eventually manage to break away from it and take a look around at the other stuff being shown, consider this the leather-jacket-obsessed take on Billy Reid SS 2011, rather than the full story.

Alright. Enough yammering:

The leather on this was genuinely incredible. Heavy and sturdy, but still remarkably supple. Buttery? I’m none too fond of that descriptor. But. Yeah, kinda…

From the back…

Dual zip & button closure, and a gray chambray lining…

Very cool interior labels…

Another look at the front with the collar up…

And down…

As I said, I did move on to a few other pieces eventually:

I have a real weakness for tweedy gray blazers…

Digging the neck and button detailing on this pullover…

A chambray workshirt with some intense chest pocket action happening…

And reinforced elbows…

A few more pieces from the line…

So yeah, it’s by no means whatsoever a full showing of Billy Reid’s SS 2011 line. Just one leather jacket that I got a wee bit obsessive over, and a few of the other things that caught my eye. The (highly) truncated version, if you will.

There were also a bunch of shoes and other sartorial goodies being shown. Take a look over at Alex Grant‘s post on the same subject for more.

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Yuketen

Yuketen’s S/S 11 preview from (capsule) NY was pretty damn solid, if not chock full o’ new stuff.  A couple of new designs, and whole fuck-ton of color, and a good deal of interesting detailing were really the name of the game with this collection.

For those unfamiliar: Yuketen, helmed by Yuki Matsuda, creates handcrafted shoes, luggage, and accessories from top-quality materials. The company has a strong, and well-adhered-to, commitment to creating pieces that are inspired by the more rugged side of American history.

In keeping with this philosophy, everything is made to exacting standards and the finished product is solid as hell.  Not surprisingly, it comes with a pretty hefty pricetag to match ($300+ for most of the shoes).

It’s the kind of thing where “investment piece” is actually an accurate term, though. As I understand it, these are the kind of shoes (and bags…and wallets, belts, etc…) that will last for nigh-on a lifetime.

Keeping that in mind, a thoughtful collection that stays pretty true to a core selection of styles–and does most of it’s adventuring in the realm of color and ornamentation–is probably a good thing. If it’s going to last for decades, a piece better damn well look good throughout those many years.

More shots from (capsule) NY:

Many, many variations on a few core models…

Country Loafer. Hells yes…

Studded loafers. I’ve got to admit, I like the brown version of these guys…

Really damn serious tooling and ornamentation on the leather on some offerings…

Detail shot…

A hardbottom option is always nice…

A brand new model showcased at (capsule) NY. Similar to the Ghillie Moc, but seriously decked out. Also the heaviest shoe that Yuketen currently makes. Apologies for the absolutely horrendous lighting here…

A better shot. I’m terrible at estimating weight, but I’m guessing this shoe weighed somewhere between 2 and 8,000 lbs. Probably closer to 2…

Final detail shot of this one. It’s a bit much for me, but I was definitely impressed by the construction and downright solidness of this model…

Straight up old skool Creeper steez. I don’t know how the hell one could actually wear this shoe, but it was fun to look at it…

This lacing detail on these canoe mocs was a really great touch…

More canoe mocs. Lots of color options…

I like this boot. I don’t know if it’d work in my wardrobe at all, but I dig  it nonetheless…

From the front…

And the all-important Vibram outsole. Long-wearing and lightweight…

It’s all about the olive drab this Fall. Reliable sources confirm it. According to Yuketen, it’s also all about bright, embossed kicks, too (bottom row)…

There was a whole table-full of accessories on display as well: Belts, wallets, card cases, key chains, and shoe horns…

A number of color options, including navy, green, and black…

And how’s about a little oxblood leather/logo fun to round out the set?

Well done to Yuki and the team.

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Naked & Famous Denim

Ok. Yes. It’s kind of a gimmick. But 32 oz. denim that can stand on its own all damn day is still pretty neat…

Naked & Famous is a brand that tends to inspire healthy debate amongst the type of people that would actually, you know, sit and debate denim. If you’re reading this, you’re probably one of ‘em.

One the one side: I know that Naked & Famous doesn’t do it for some denim purists. It really has to do with their tendency to do things like 32 oz. denim. While neat, it’s not particularly practical and tends to come off as something they did because they can, not necessarily because they should.

On the flip side, there’s the people like me. I’m definitely pro-N&F, despite the fact that I’ll be the first to admit that some of their more…eccentric…denim options are things that I wouldn’t really wear (though I really do enjoy looking at them).

For a pair of modern jeans with a solid fit, and at a generally reasonable price point, I think they’re a great option. The denim tends to be quality stuff, and the fit, especially, is really on point. I’ve got a pair of Skinny Guys and a pair of Weird Guys, and I really enjoy wearing both of them. For me, fit is king when it comes to jeans, so the fact that N&F pretty much nailed it on that front means that they’ll always get love from me (barring any horrific turns on the fabric/construction fronts).

Another note on the denim: Naked & Famous consistently comes out with new and different options. At (capsule), aside from the 32 oz option and among a plethora of others, they showed an 8 oz cotton/linen blend that felt like it’ll be a godsend come next summer. Gotta give ‘em credit for pushing out something to keep denim freaks from sweating themselves to death in mid-July.

To get down to the stuff from (capsule) NY, the Momotaro denim collab was a standout if you ask me. It had the best hand (in my opinion), and the minor tweaks like modified stitching on the back pockets and Canadian/Japanese flag-printed pocket bags elevated it to a whole other level.

Leather accessories, that linen blend denim, and an indigo warp/red weft option take honorable mention.

Time for more shots:

7mm thick natural and black leather belts. Pretty intense, but these looked solid, wearable, and altogether well done..

Red warp/ white weft. I can’t pull this off, but I like it…

Indigo warp with a red weft. Ever since the Julian Red Nikki Six (pink weft) came out, I’ve been into this sort of treatment…

Indigo print on a red leather patch to match the theme…

N&F’s Citrus denim. Same idea with the indigo warp/colored weft. Already in stores though…

Leather accessories: Wallets, card cases, and lighter cases. And yes, that’s an origami crane done in leather at the top of the photo…

Chino jeans. Dig it…

The Momotaro collaboration jeans. My favorite of the bunch…

The coin pocket has a very subtle selvage detail…

Momotaro stamped buttons…

A dual branded leather patch…

Slightly modified back pocket stitching. I really like this…

Classic red line selvage…

Country flag pocket bags round out the package…

More origami…

Button downs. In chambray…

Oxford cloth…

Gingham, and flannel…

Time for a couple of the more intense denim options. Wearable? Maybe. Maybe not. But definitely interesting.

Ok, let’s see if I get this. I’m pretty sure it’s is an uncorrected alternating twill. Not entirely sure if I got that right, but I’m pretty damn sure it’s 3 inch sections of alternating right hand and left hand twill. The weave also isn’t corrected to prevent twisting, so there’s gonna be some intense leg twist as it’s worn and washed…

I didn’t ask the story behind this bag, and I didn’t open it. But my completely uneducated guess? Denim cooler. Why not?

And just in case you were wondering whether you can score a raw denim yarmulke? Well…yeah. You can. That spool is the stainless steel from a style that I covered earlier…

Altogether, a very nice collection of goods. A little bit of eccentricity, but a whole lot more sensible and solid wares. And I can’t stress enough, the fit on N&F’s jeans is impressive. I’m looking forward to this stuff hitting the shelves so I can start trying things on.

That’s that for Naked & Famous from (capsule) NY.

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Perfecto by Schott NYC

Updated One-Star Perfectos and a vintaged horsehide Cafe Racer. Mmmmmm….

Schott NYC absolutely nailed it with the new Perfecto by Schott line that showed this past Monday/Tuesday at (capsule) NY.

Designed by Greg Chapman (who, aside from being talented as hell, is a genuinely nice guy) the line draws on Schott NYC’s venerable heritage with updated takes on classic pieces. Lines are slimmed down, fabrics and leathers are played with a bit, and it all comes together into a collection that certainly vies for my personal “best in show” award for (capsule) NY as a whole.

Among the collection you’ll find takes on a number of leather jacket styles, including the double riders jacket (made famous by the original Perfecto), the A2 bomber, and the racer jacket in both cafe and spread-collar. In terms of materials, you’ve got a bunch of options: Horsehide, cowhide, a goddamn beautiful suede (it’s soft as hell, but heavy and sturdy at the same time), waxcloth, and heavy twill.

There’s also a good deal of variety when it comes to vintage effects on the leather. I’ve mentioned a few times that I’m generally weary of this practice, but if you take a look at that black/brown marbling effect on a couple of the jackets below, I think you’ll come to the same conclusion I did. In this instance, it works.

The waxcloth on this jacket is light and pliable, but still very clearly durable. A perfect jacket for spring weather… Perfecto in a lightweight cowhide. I could see this becoming a standby in my own collection…

The marbled black/brown vintaging I mentioned earlier. Clearly, I was fascinated with this…

Talon zips on some of the models. Old skool for the win…

There’s that fantastic suede…

I think the far right is actually a ladies’ model. Very cool…

There’s also a very strong portion of the collection that draws on the other end of Schott’s expertise, with mountain parkas, pea coats and toggle coats. These pieces are done in deadstock nylon/poplin from the company’s storerooms, selvage raw denim from Cone Mills White Oak, and some impressively sturdy cotton duck in a few different colors (eye-searing orange among them).

Also: I really dig the linings they used in this collection in general. Tartan, gingham, and plaid galore. Icing on the cake.

Actually not sure if this was just a fabric sample for linings or if they’re offering a scarf, and neglected to ask. If it’s just a sample, I humbly suggest they offer a scarf. If it’s a scarf, I want one…

Cone Mills White Oak. Quality, American-made fabrics…

Geeked out on the selvage detailing. I’m glad they had the good sense to keep it subtle…

I didn’t think I’d like this when I first saw preview shots last week. I was oh so wrong. I want one for myself. Like, yesterday…

Many of the components like the toggles here were actually sourced from deadstock within Schott’s factory in Elizabeth, NJ…

The line arrives for real in Spring 2011. Prices will land between $400 and $1,000. When you’re talking about the top end of that range representing the cost of an American-made horsehide jacket, it’s really damn reasonable bang for your buck.

Start saving them ducats, kids. If you’re anything like me, you’re gonna want more than one of these pieces.

—Jonathan

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