Objects of Affection: Oak Street Bootmakers Fall 2010 Collection

Oak Street Bootmakers is a brand new company that’s made a very strong showing right out of the gate with its Fall 2010 collection. Many thanks to James from Secret Forts and to Ryan Plett for bringing them to my attention.

The shoes are all designed in Chicago by native George Vlagos, who learned the trade by apprenticing as a cobbler his father’s shop. The production is done by hand in Maine by craftsmen with 20+ years of experience.

Components are top shelf as well. All the leather is Horween Chromexcel, which is extremely durable but still pliable and comfortable (the result of an intense–and exclusive–series of treatments during tanning). The rubber sole options are done by Vibram. And all of the shoes and boots feature replaceable soles. This makes for a much longer lifespan, as you can simply resole and keep on truckin’ with your well-worn, well-loved uppers.

The shapes for the debut are all classics: there’s a boat shoe, a trail oxford (which strikes me as quite similar to your basic blucher moc, but no complaints), and two versions of a penny loafer for sale online now. Soon to be seen: a chukka, a work boot, and a hunt boot.

I’m certainly looking forward to seeing that hunt boot, myself, but that’s not to say there isn’t a solid selection available already. There is. In fact I could sincerely see myself buying up the whole lot in an alternate universe where money is no object and nothing ever sells out.

But alas, I won’t be buying the entire collection. Not just because I don’t have the funds, but because some the innaguaral offerings are already gone. Most prices hover around the low to mid $200s, which is very reasonable considering the materials and methods employed in their creation. So it’s not really shocking that folks are scooping ‘em up quick.

At the time of this writing, both of the penny loafer options and the navy trail oxfords have sold out. Tragic, but at least the photographs remain.

The rest of the line is heading the same way, and fast. If you’re looking to score a pair for yourself and avoid further tragedy, get on it now.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Oak Street Bootmakers)

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(capsule) NY: Yuketen

Yuketen’s S/S 11 preview from (capsule) NY was pretty damn solid, if not chock full o’ new stuff.  A couple of new designs, and whole fuck-ton of color, and a good deal of interesting detailing were really the name of the game with this collection.

For those unfamiliar: Yuketen, helmed by Yuki Matsuda, creates handcrafted shoes, luggage, and accessories from top-quality materials. The company has a strong, and well-adhered-to, commitment to creating pieces that are inspired by the more rugged side of American history.

In keeping with this philosophy, everything is made to exacting standards and the finished product is solid as hell.  Not surprisingly, it comes with a pretty hefty pricetag to match ($300+ for most of the shoes).

It’s the kind of thing where “investment piece” is actually an accurate term, though. As I understand it, these are the kind of shoes (and bags…and wallets, belts, etc…) that will last for nigh-on a lifetime.

Keeping that in mind, a thoughtful collection that stays pretty true to a core selection of styles–and does most of it’s adventuring in the realm of color and ornamentation–is probably a good thing. If it’s going to last for decades, a piece better damn well look good throughout those many years.

More shots from (capsule) NY:

Many, many variations on a few core models…

Country Loafer. Hells yes…

Studded loafers. I’ve got to admit, I like the brown version of these guys…

Really damn serious tooling and ornamentation on the leather on some offerings…

Detail shot…

A hardbottom option is always nice…

A brand new model showcased at (capsule) NY. Similar to the Ghillie Moc, but seriously decked out. Also the heaviest shoe that Yuketen currently makes. Apologies for the absolutely horrendous lighting here…

A better shot. I’m terrible at estimating weight, but I’m guessing this shoe weighed somewhere between 2 and 8,000 lbs. Probably closer to 2…

Final detail shot of this one. It’s a bit much for me, but I was definitely impressed by the construction and downright solidness of this model…

Straight up old skool Creeper steez. I don’t know how the hell one could actually wear this shoe, but it was fun to look at it…

This lacing detail on these canoe mocs was a really great touch…

More canoe mocs. Lots of color options…

I like this boot. I don’t know if it’d work in my wardrobe at all, but I dig  it nonetheless…

From the front…

And the all-important Vibram outsole. Long-wearing and lightweight…

It’s all about the olive drab this Fall. Reliable sources confirm it. According to Yuketen, it’s also all about bright, embossed kicks, too (bottom row)…

There was a whole table-full of accessories on display as well: Belts, wallets, card cases, key chains, and shoe horns…

A number of color options, including navy, green, and black…

And how’s about a little oxblood leather/logo fun to round out the set?

Well done to Yuki and the team.

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Sebago

Just a couple of shots here that I thought folks might dig from the Sebago booth at (capsule) NY. The top shot is the Brothers Bray x Sebago Fairhaven that’s been showcased here previously. The suede, especially, really delivered in person.

Another thing that caught my eye:

Not sure of the exact story behind this one, but I’m pretty sure it’s just a shortwing brogue take on the Salem. The guy in the background is a desert boot version.

True to the company’s boat shoe hertitage, the outsole is a slip resistant rubber (Vibram Pluriball to be exact). A nice option for when conditions are just a little too wet to be kind to a leather outsole.

That’s it for Sebago (for now, at least).

—Jonathan

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(capsule) NY: Eastland Made in Maine Collection

Eastland shoes celebrate their 55 year anniversary in 2010, and to mark the occasion they’ve come out with a new line. The Made in Maine collection is a higher-end offshoot that’s all handsewn in the USA and made with Horween leather. So yeah, right off the bat, I was into this one.

They’ve got a good few styles on offer. Moc oxfords, boots (boat and guide), boat shoes, chukkas, and canoe mocs all make an appearance. In terms of soles, there’s crepe, commando, boat, camp, and hardbottom options. Leathers run a pretty wide gamut as well, with a number of textures, colors, and treatments in the mix.

That might sound like a lot, but because everything is pretty solidly in the “classic” space, it doesn’t come off as overwrought at all.

My personal favorites? The boat boot in both the camp sole and hardbottom versions, the canoe moc, and the crepe soled chukka.

Some more shots of the stuff that caught my eye at (capsule) NY:

Keep in mind, that’s just a sampling of the collection. Nice as the Eastland guys were (and they were) I didn’t want to spend all day up in their business taking photos.

No straight up number for what to expect in terms of pricing, but according to the guys at Eastland it’s competitive. Seeing as their prices are pretty reasonable on the main collection, I’m inclined to believe them.

Be on the lookout for this stuff to hit the streets soon. The line drops this Fall, with the first deliveries scheduled for late August (I believe).

—Jonathan

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Objects of Affection: Brothers Bray x Sebago Fairhaven (Round 2)

The Brothers Bray x Sebago Fairhavens that I previewed here a few days back are now available online at Urban Outfitters. Since I’ve already written on these, I’ll keep it brief for now.

The boot will run you $158.

And the work shoe is $128.

Click on them links to grab a pair.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Urban Outfitters)

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Objects of Affection: Brothers Bray x Sebago Fairhaven

The Fairhaven is a beefier take on the boat shoe/boot by Sebago. Previously unavailable in the US, it’s been tweaked by the guys from Billykirk and will soon be dropping onto American shelves in Urban Outfitters as part of the Brothers Bray line.

So really it’s a three-way deal. Billykirk + Urban + Sebago = New Fairhavens for the people.

Traditionally worn by dockworkers in Europe, it’s got a distinct workwear influence that you just don’t find in your typical Docksides. No hate for the classic boat shoes, but they do tend to have that whole leisurely air about them. And part of the vibe comes from the relatively lightweight look and feel.

The Fairhaven is the perfect offering for anyone who wants a bit more heft on their feet. It’s especially well suited for those who feel the boat boot, in particular, is overly slim (I know you’re out there).

It’s just these preview shots for now, but even so, I’m excited for this effort.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Urban Outfitters)

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Objects of Affection: Quoddy Boat Shoes and Deck Chukkas in Black Chromexcel Leather

The Quoddy boat shoe and deck chukka here are both hand-made in Maine and done up in water resistant Chromexcel leather from Horween. They’re also lined in glove leather, and the white deck sole is stitched on and replaceable so you can keep on wearing ‘em for ages.

For an added bonus, they’re currently on sale at Tres Bien Shop.

The boat shoe is down from €190.00 to €132. For folks outside the EU there’s that additional 20% off (no value added tax for us), which equates to €105.60, or a meager $134 US. They usually run about $225, so that’s a pretty respectable markdown (even accounting for the unfavorable exchange rate).

The deck chukka is down from €222 to €153. Apply the same math for the price for statesiders and you’re looking at about $155 (vs. the usual $275). Not bad.

If you’re in the market for something from Quoddy, it seems that now’s the time to pull the trigger.

I’m sure they’re going fast, so get over to Tres Bien quick if you want ‘em.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Tres Bien Shop)

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Objects of Affection: SeaVees 09/65 Bayside Moc Hi

You know how I was saying that I don’t tend to dig jute on my shoes the other day? The SeaVees Bayside Moc stands as a solid exception to that rule.

On the brand front, I’ve been fascinated by the SeaVees story since I first heard of them a while ago. The company was launched in 1964 by BF Goodrich, but was shuttered for decades before the current team relaunched the brand in 2006. Their stated purpose for the current iteration of the brand is to be “not a token revival effort, but a respectful rehabilitation movement.”

The great thing is, I believe that entirely. These guys are genuinely committed to the breezy, casual left-coast vibe that jumps to mind when one thinks of the California of the 60′s. Never mind the fact that the vision they’re referencing is based on a pretty heavy dose of idealizing the past. It’s about evoking a feeling, not an actual history. And in doing that, they’re totally successful.

In keeping with their overall “evocation” vibe, it’s fitting that all of SeaVees’ models are numbered with crucial dates for the progress of cool in 60′s California. The boat shoe inspired Bayside Moc is given the 09/65 number because (in SeaVees’ words):

In September 1965 the San Francisco Examiner is the first to observe the birth of the hippie movement. The newspaper notes in its September 5th edition that the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco, California has become ‘a hip hangout’ for beatniks.

Not a bad choice for a shoe with a pretty damn relaxed vibe to it.

OK, on to the details. I normally don’t quote so extensively from a manufacturer. But then, manufacturers rarely write up their item descriptions so well.  The specs according to SeaVees:

Our 09/65 Bayside Moccasin embraces the free-thinking, interdependent values of the 60’s hipster subculture. Uppers are made of soft, brushed twill and feature a jute foxing tape. Moccasin stitch is hand-sewn with a heavy, waxed thread. Laces are oil stuffed rawhide leather. Flat eyelets are brushed silver. Superior comfort footbed is leather lined. Uppers are lined in naturally antibacterial and hypoallergenic bamboo canvas to keep your foot dry and odor free. Sueded leather heel counters secure fit. Made by our patented SeaVulc Natural Rubber manufacturing process that allows a casual shoe to be as comfortable as a sneaker.

Alright then!

My take: it’s a very handsome boat chukka. Though the brushed twill uppers don’t exactly match the whole “water-friendly” intent of the boat shoe as a utility item, they’re certainly well-suited to casual wear. The bamboo lining and leather footbed are a very nice touch for the sockless among us who prefer to not have their shoes end up hopelessly be-funked, and the dark rawhide laces pair well with the gray canvas. Also, for some damned reason, the jute foxing looks fucking great. Put that all together in a hand sewn package and I’m pretty much sold.

After that wall of text, more pictures are definitely necessary:

Get yourself a pair from Need Supply or direct from the folks at SeaVees. Either way it’ll run you $100 even.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Need Supply)

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