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Archive for the ‘Shirts’ Category

The Survival Shirt from Apolis Activism is a pretty great option if you’re looking for a slim chambray shirt that breaks away from the (relative) glut of blue/red/gray options out there.

Done in olive green 4 oz. Japanese chambray and finished with contrasting corozo buttons, it’s based on a vintage military silhouette. Which explains the epaulets and the heavy dose of pockets. Specifically, you’ve got 2 large ones on the chest, 1 hidden guy on the left front, and 1 flapped & buttoned mini “travel” pocket that hits at the bottom of the rib cage. I tend to think that 4 is a lot of pockets for a shirt, but it looks great here, so you won’t catch me complaining.

The Survival Shirt also features a button under collar, a single box pleat at the center back, and a locker loop (ostensibly to hang dry, but does anyone actually do that?).

It’s hand made in NJ at a 60 year old custom shirting factory, which is pretty cool.

More shots:

If you’re a size L, you’re in luck. It’ll run you $198 and you can get it direct from Apolis Activism.

If you’re anything other than a large (like me), it’s sold out pretty much everywhere and you’re SOL. Sorry, guys.

Still, it’s nice to look at.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Apolis Activism)

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For your late Sunday evening viewing pleasure, a couple of nice shirting options from Surface to Air.

First up, the Wire shirt. Blue oxford cloth with a selvage stripe detail on the chest pocket. Available at Gargyle, and on sale for $120 (down from $145).

Part two: a light blue, mini-stripe number available at Frances May. This one’s regular price at $145, but considering how damn good it looks, the $25 difference seems very well worth it.

And that’s all for now, kids.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Gargyle and Frances May)

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Taylor Stitch operates out of San Francisco, CA and produces some wonderful shirting options with top notch single needle tailoring techniques and an attention to detail and construction that kind of blows my mind.

But despite the fact that the quality is (understandably) going to be the strongest selling point for a lot of folks, I’m actually more interested in the fit and styling. Specifically at the bottom hem.

If you take a look at the photos above, you’ll notice that the side saddles are cut much lower than your average button up, while the shirttails are much shorter. In fact, it’s pretty close to completely squared off all around. And if you’re hyper-meticulous, you’ll also notice that there’s 8 buttons on the front as opposed to the traditional 7.

Why? Well, there are a couple of reasons that can’t really be placed in rank order, but work better as a list. So just keep in mind that I’m not saying one thing is better than any other here, just pointing out all the ways in which this take on shirting rocks:

  1. The look. A shorter, squared off shirt looks much better untucked. And the 8th button means you’re not going to be flashing your navel all willy nilly around the place like some sort of abdominal pervert.
  2. The function. The longer side saddles make it easier to tuck in your shirt and have it stay tucked in. Considering the fact that I’ve been dealing with the sides of my shirt slipping out of my waistband all damn day today, that sounds fucking perfect to me.

My personal favorites of the current ready to wear lineup (they do custom jobs as well) are the Antique White Oxford and the Japanese Madras. Both feature Japanese milled cotton and Corozo buttons, and both  just beg to be worn to pretty much all the time.

More shots of each:

The oxford will run you $150, and the madras checks in at $165. Both available direct from the Taylor Stitch folks, just click those links and get your shirting on.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Taylor Stitch)

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After much anticipation, Run of the Mill Shop has finally opened it’s doors (in the proverbial sense, as it’s all online). ROTM is the product of three fellow men’s style bloggers: Lawrence of Sartorially Inclined,  Jeremy of Start With Typewriters, and Jon of Getting Beat Like You Stole Something. They decided to set up a venue to showcase some of their personal favorite gear, and that’s how this beast was born.

I’m pleased to say, they’ve come out swinging with a capsule collection of six exclusive pieces by Mark McNairy. Though they aren’t all 100% up my alley, they’re all damn fine items in their own right (just because I personally can’t pull off digi-camo cargos doesn’t mean there aren’t those out there who can rock them with panache). And fully half of the pieces–the three you see above–are spot on for my tastes. They’d also play perfectly together in a single outfit. That is pretty awesome.

And it’s also the inspiration for the debut installment of a new segment showcasing pieces that just beg to be worn together. We’ll see how often it actually happens (hopefully a lot), but that’s a question for later. For now, welcome to Outfitted: Run of the Mill Shop + Mark McNairy Edition.

In terms of my reasoning for this outfit, I just think it’s a great combination of old-school inspiration and modern execution. All the pieces are, at their core at least, classics: You’ve got an oxford, chinos, and longwings. But there are definitely some twists and turns along the way. And that’s what keeps it interesting.

Let’s start from the top.

The Red University Stripe Oxford ($135) is actually genuinely classic through and through. The ROTM/McNairy team just had the presence of mind to give it to us in a decent fit and Japanese cotton. Both a plus.

It’s also kind of an anchor piece for the entire look. Because it isn’t too far out, you’re able to get a bit more leeway on the pants and shoes without coming off garish or looking like you’re trying too hard.

And that leeway is a good thing, because the shirt allows the Navy 8 Pocket Cargo ($238) to pop instead of fighting with them for attention. The reason I dig the navy version so much and wouldn’t go for the aforementioned digital camo version of these pants is because I tend to feel that a piece should usually only push the envelope in one aspect. Lots of adornment or general construction-based detailing like, say, 8 freaking pockets? Probably want to go for a more subdued hue like navy.

But the digi camo is pretty much balls out on both fronts, and that’s too much for me. Now, this is just my own personal take on how I’d choose to dress myself. Some people can really rock the go-to-hell combo of eye-blistering print and intense construction. A fuck-ton of pockets on an otherwise classic navy chino is enough of a twist for for me though.

Aside from the way they work in terms of demand for attention, I think the proportions of the shirt and pants match well. Both seem pretty damn trim, and the shirt looks to have long enough tails that you could tuck it in to a low-rise pant (8″ in the front) without constantly having it slip out. Practicality!

On to the shoes: the Loden Green Suede Longwing ($350):

Yes, they’re green suede, which you’d think would be kind of nuts until you see them and realize it just happens to look really good and notice that this particular Loden Green pairs very well with the navy pants. The natural crepe sole is so neutral that it could work with just about anything. But here it lightens up the look of the shoe overall while giving them a sort of military-explorer feel (desert boots anyone?) to go with the cargos. The round hiking boot style laces keep the explorer-cum-style-junkie vibe going all the way to the end.

In terms of construction: it’s all gonna be top notch. The shirt and pants are both made in the USA, the shoes are bench made in England and feature a Goodyear welt, and I’ve heard nothing but good things about McNairy’s quality standards.

Get yourself over to the site to check out the other pieces (there are double monks) before they sell out. Which I’m pretty certain they’re all going to do.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Run of the Mill Shop)

Ed’s Note: I’m usually anti-cargo and much more for shortwings than longwings, so I’m especially impressed by how much I like these pieces. Well played indeed, ROTM and Mr. McNairy.

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Big Bear

Dale

While T-shirts are not really a mainstay of my wardrobe, I will definitely bust ‘em out on occasion. And I certainly still appreciate a good one, so I’m glad that  Massachusetts-based Penfield has a couple of tees I really dig in the summer collection that’s currently up on their site.

The first one features an enormous screen print of a bear on the front (it’s a play on their logo). And basically, if you put a decent image of a bear on a shirt, I will want that shirt. It’s just how I roll, for some reason.

The other one I find myself gravitating towards is called the Dale. It’s an interesting take on the basic pocket-tee, with the pocket as well as a v-shaped back yoke both done in contrast oxford cloth. Given my obvious affection for all things oxford cloth, and the fact that I’m a bit of a sucker for the “twist on a classic” variety of design, it should come as no surprise that this shirt is up my alley.

The only thing I’m unsure of is the fit, as I’ve never encountered a Penfield tee in person. From the fit pics on the site, though, I’m thinking that they have a more traditional and relaxed cut. While the bear tee could be worn any way you please, the Dale is something that I think would look best in a trim fit.

If you’re the type that’s between sizes sometimes, I’d err on the smaller side of things. Just my guess, though.

More shots of the other colors available:

The Big Bear will run you $37, and the Dale is $53. Both are available direct from Penfield.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Penfield)

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I know flannel shirts are usually viewed as a quintessentially “wintry” item, and I can appreciate that stance. But I’ve always had a special place in my heart for them as a perfect layering piece to throw on over your daytime digs when a summer night takes a turn for the chilly and you need an extra bit of fabric between you and the world. This offering from Steven Alan is particularly well suited to the latter situation, if you ask me.

I think it’s the inherently casual vibe of the large plaid and the relatively relaxed fit. And when you add the signature reverse seam detail, in which the placket twists in between the second button and the top so that it actually lays flat with the collar open, you get a shirt that definitely has that “intentionally slouchy” vibe on lock. And that’s pretty perfect for an overshirt.

I’m not saying it doesn’t hold up on it’s own. It does, and you can see it in the shots here. But even styled as a stand alone button up, it’s the slightly rumpled feel that gives it charm. I guess all I’m saying here is: good luck dressing this one up. I just don’t see it happening.

But who cares? It looks good as is.

The look from the back:

I actually own a version of this shirt and can attest to its quality (though it’s from a prior F/W release, and therefore might be a bit different and probably heavier weight). The thing is very well made, and I’d personally recommend it to anyone searching for a solidly built flannel.

Get it at Stel’s for $119 (marked down from $170).

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Stel’s)

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Gingham is (obviously) a staple for summer, and it’s definitely a welcome bonus that there’s a pretty robust variety of colors out there to choose from when you feel like rocking the check.

Crate has a very solid set of options for you, all for only $78. Black, blue, purple, and red are all available from Penelope’s. I know that Alter also stocks the blue option, as well as a navy/yellow option that’s just fantastic (and of which I cannot find an acceptably representative photo. Sorry).

Take a look at what’s on offer:

Black:

Blue:

Purple:

Red:

If you decide you want to pick one up for yourself, just keep in mind that Crate runs very small (pretty much a full size), so you’ll want to size up.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Penelope’s)

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I’m kinda apeshit for the mini stipe on this shirt. It lends an amazing depth to the 4 oz. pinpoint oxford cloth that Apolis Activism used here. The rest of the details are solid as hell, too. Natural river shell buttons, hidden button down collar, and of course the requisite military accents in the form of the box-pleated chest pockets and epaulets.

It’s all hand crafted in New Jersey and sourced responsibly and sustainably. Apolis is committed to the ideal of good global citizenship, and follows through on that commitment in the creation of it’s clothing. So you can feel good about yourself while upping your style quotient. Huzzahs all around.

More shots:

It’ll run you $168, and you can get it online from Need Supply.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Need Supply)

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A good plaid is something that I will always be down with, and this super-large black/white/purple offering from Unis is right up my alley. Really, that’s the main selling point for me with this piece. Luckily, though, there’s enough going on here to satisfy even those folks who aren’t just a sucker for the pattern.

It’s done in a lightweight cotton, with a slightly loose fit in the body, so it’s very summer friendly. To counteract the volume in the torso, slim arms and high armholes ensure the overall vibe of the shirt is trim, not sloppy.

There’s also a nicely rounded button down collar, which is a detail I haven’t seen on many other shirts (usually it’s your standard point). That small addition does a great job of adding to the casual feel of the shirt while giving your eye a little extra something to work with.

More shots:

The whole process–from design to manufacture–is done in NYC, but you can score this particular piece from the west coast. Get it online from Portland’s Frances May for $178.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Frances May)

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It is 100% about the details on this oxford button-down from Our Legacy.

It’s pretty traditional in terms of basic styling and fit.  But the blue linen has a wonderful and unique look to it:  something in between a traditional cotton oxford cloth and a chambray, to my eye. And the mother of pearl buttons add a nice touch of refinement to a fabric that tends to come off quite casual due to its tendency to wrinkle.

The real kicker, for me, is the 1940’s-style placket. Since the bottom-most front button is hidden, the chevron finishing on the bottom of the placket is able to stand out a bit more. Still subtle, but the kind of thing the detail-obsessed are bound to notice.

More looks:

It’ll run you $168 from Penelope’s online store. Get on it now, because from what I’ve seen, Our Legacy’s stuff is not long for the retails racks before the masses snatch it up for themselves.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Penelope’s)

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