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Archive for the ‘Shirts’ Category

Billy Reid’s “Moto Jacket.” Really more of a cropped leather pea coat, but awesome nonetheless…

While at (capsule) NY, I got a chance to stop by the Billy Reid booth for a bit and check out the SS 2011 preview.

To give a bit of background: Billy Reid’s aesthetic has a sort of Southern Gentile via downtown New York vibe to it. Certainly steeped in tradition, but with a modern and ever-so-slightly gritty feel. Not dirty, mind you. Just not overly prim and proper.

It’s actually the second time around for Billy Reid (the first iteration ran 1998-2002), but things are looking good for this run. Reid was named GQ’s menswear designer of the year for 2010, and the label is pretty well poised to go massive right now. Judging from the stuff I saw at (capsule) NY, the buzz is well-deserved.

I must admit that I was completely, embarrassingly sidetracked by one piece: the leather “Moto Jacket” (really a cropped pea coat but no worries). While I did eventually manage to break away from it and take a look around at the other stuff being shown, consider this the leather-jacket-obsessed take on Billy Reid SS 2011, rather than the full story.

Alright. Enough yammering:

The leather on this was genuinely incredible. Heavy and sturdy, but still remarkably supple. Buttery? I’m none too fond of that descriptor. But. Yeah, kinda…

From the back…

Dual zip & button closure, and a gray chambray lining…

Very cool interior labels…

Another look at the front with the collar up…

And down…

As I said, I did move on to a few other pieces eventually:

I have a real weakness for tweedy gray blazers…

Digging the neck and button detailing on this pullover…

A chambray workshirt with some intense chest pocket action happening…

And reinforced elbows…

A few more pieces from the line…

So yeah, it’s by no means whatsoever a full showing of Billy Reid’s SS 2011 line. Just one leather jacket that I got a wee bit obsessive over, and a few of the other things that caught my eye. The (highly) truncated version, if you will.

There were also a bunch of shoes and other sartorial goodies being shown. Take a look over at Alex Grant‘s post on the same subject for more.

—Jonathan

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Ok. Yes. It’s kind of a gimmick. But 32 oz. denim that can stand on its own all damn day is still pretty neat…

Naked & Famous is a brand that tends to inspire healthy debate amongst the type of people that would actually, you know, sit and debate denim. If you’re reading this, you’re probably one of ‘em.

One the one side: I know that Naked & Famous doesn’t do it for some denim purists. It really has to do with their tendency to do things like 32 oz. denim. While neat, it’s not particularly practical and tends to come off as something they did because they can, not necessarily because they should.

On the flip side, there’s the people like me. I’m definitely pro-N&F, despite the fact that I’ll be the first to admit that some of their more…eccentric…denim options are things that I wouldn’t really wear (though I really do enjoy looking at them).

For a pair of modern jeans with a solid fit, and at a generally reasonable price point, I think they’re a great option. The denim tends to be quality stuff, and the fit, especially, is really on point. I’ve got a pair of Skinny Guys and a pair of Weird Guys, and I really enjoy wearing both of them. For me, fit is king when it comes to jeans, so the fact that N&F pretty much nailed it on that front means that they’ll always get love from me (barring any horrific turns on the fabric/construction fronts).

Another note on the denim: Naked & Famous consistently comes out with new and different options. At (capsule), aside from the 32 oz option and among a plethora of others, they showed an 8 oz cotton/linen blend that felt like it’ll be a godsend come next summer. Gotta give ‘em credit for pushing out something to keep denim freaks from sweating themselves to death in mid-July.

To get down to the stuff from (capsule) NY, the Momotaro denim collab was a standout if you ask me. It had the best hand (in my opinion), and the minor tweaks like modified stitching on the back pockets and Canadian/Japanese flag-printed pocket bags elevated it to a whole other level.

Leather accessories, that linen blend denim, and an indigo warp/red weft option take honorable mention.

Time for more shots:

7mm thick natural and black leather belts. Pretty intense, but these looked solid, wearable, and altogether well done..

Red warp/ white weft. I can’t pull this off, but I like it…

Indigo warp with a red weft. Ever since the Julian Red Nikki Six (pink weft) came out, I’ve been into this sort of treatment…

Indigo print on a red leather patch to match the theme…

N&F’s Citrus denim. Same idea with the indigo warp/colored weft. Already in stores though…

Leather accessories: Wallets, card cases, and lighter cases. And yes, that’s an origami crane done in leather at the top of the photo…

Chino jeans. Dig it…

The Momotaro collaboration jeans. My favorite of the bunch…

The coin pocket has a very subtle selvage detail…

Momotaro stamped buttons…

A dual branded leather patch…

Slightly modified back pocket stitching. I really like this…

Classic red line selvage…

Country flag pocket bags round out the package…

More origami…

Button downs. In chambray…

Oxford cloth…

Gingham, and flannel…

Time for a couple of the more intense denim options. Wearable? Maybe. Maybe not. But definitely interesting.

Ok, let’s see if I get this. I’m pretty sure it’s is an uncorrected alternating twill. Not entirely sure if I got that right, but I’m pretty damn sure it’s 3 inch sections of alternating right hand and left hand twill. The weave also isn’t corrected to prevent twisting, so there’s gonna be some intense leg twist as it’s worn and washed…

I didn’t ask the story behind this bag, and I didn’t open it. But my completely uneducated guess? Denim cooler. Why not?

And just in case you were wondering whether you can score a raw denim yarmulke? Well…yeah. You can. That spool is the stainless steel from a style that I covered earlier

Altogether, a very nice collection of goods. A little bit of eccentricity, but a whole lot more sensible and solid wares. And I can’t stress enough, the fit on N&F’s jeans is impressive. I’m looking forward to this stuff hitting the shelves so I can start trying things on.

That’s that for Naked & Famous from (capsule) NY.

—Jonathan

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The last couple of days in NY have been insanely hot. Face-melting, spontaneous-combustion-if-it-weren’t-so-damn-humid kinda hot. I wish I had one of these broadcloth gingham guys from Gitman Bros. for INVENTORY to get me through it.

They’re done in organic Japanese cotton, they’re much more appropriately lightweight than the oxford cloth I made the terrible decision of wearing yesterday, and they’re available in navy and light blue.

Also, I freaking love the contrasting red around the buttonhole on the back of the collar.

Get on it for $170 from INVENTORY Stockroom.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of INVENTORY Stockroom)

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The Survival Shirt from Apolis Activism is a pretty great option if you’re looking for a slim chambray shirt that breaks away from the (relative) glut of blue/red/gray options out there.

Done in olive green 4 oz. Japanese chambray and finished with contrasting corozo buttons, it’s based on a vintage military silhouette. Which explains the epaulets and the heavy dose of pockets. Specifically, you’ve got 2 large ones on the chest, 1 hidden guy on the left front, and 1 flapped & buttoned mini “travel” pocket that hits at the bottom of the rib cage. I tend to think that 4 is a lot of pockets for a shirt, but it looks great here, so you won’t catch me complaining.

The Survival Shirt also features a button under collar, a single box pleat at the center back, and a locker loop (ostensibly to hang dry, but does anyone actually do that?).

It’s hand made in NJ at a 60 year old custom shirting factory, which is pretty cool.

More shots:

If you’re a size L, you’re in luck. It’ll run you $198 and you can get it direct from Apolis Activism.

If you’re anything other than a large (like me), it’s sold out pretty much everywhere and you’re SOL. Sorry, guys.

Still, it’s nice to look at.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Apolis Activism)

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For your late Sunday evening viewing pleasure, a couple of nice shirting options from Surface to Air.

First up, the Wire shirt. Blue oxford cloth with a selvage stripe detail on the chest pocket. Available at Gargyle, and on sale for $120 (down from $145).

Part two: a light blue, mini-stripe number available at Frances May. This one’s regular price at $145, but considering how damn good it looks, the $25 difference seems very well worth it.

And that’s all for now, kids.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Gargyle and Frances May)

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Taylor Stitch operates out of San Francisco, CA and produces some wonderful shirting options with top notch single needle tailoring techniques and an attention to detail and construction that kind of blows my mind.

But despite the fact that the quality is (understandably) going to be the strongest selling point for a lot of folks, I’m actually more interested in the fit and styling. Specifically at the bottom hem.

If you take a look at the photos above, you’ll notice that the side saddles are cut much lower than your average button up, while the shirttails are much shorter. In fact, it’s pretty close to completely squared off all around. And if you’re hyper-meticulous, you’ll also notice that there’s 8 buttons on the front as opposed to the traditional 7.

Why? Well, there are a couple of reasons that can’t really be placed in rank order, but work better as a list. So just keep in mind that I’m not saying one thing is better than any other here, just pointing out all the ways in which this take on shirting rocks:

  1. The look. A shorter, squared off shirt looks much better untucked. And the 8th button means you’re not going to be flashing your navel all willy nilly around the place like some sort of abdominal pervert.
  2. The function. The longer side saddles make it easier to tuck in your shirt and have it stay tucked in. Considering the fact that I’ve been dealing with the sides of my shirt slipping out of my waistband all damn day today, that sounds fucking perfect to me.

My personal favorites of the current ready to wear lineup (they do custom jobs as well) are the Antique White Oxford and the Japanese Madras. Both feature Japanese milled cotton and Corozo buttons, and both  just beg to be worn to pretty much all the time.

More shots of each:

The oxford will run you $150, and the madras checks in at $165. Both available direct from the Taylor Stitch folks, just click those links and get your shirting on.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Taylor Stitch)

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After much anticipation, Run of the Mill Shop has finally opened it’s doors (in the proverbial sense, as it’s all online). ROTM is the product of three fellow men’s style bloggers: Lawrence of Sartorially Inclined,¬† Jeremy of Start With Typewriters, and Jon of Getting Beat Like You Stole Something. They decided to set up a venue to showcase some of their personal favorite gear, and that’s how this beast was born.

I’m pleased to say, they’ve come out swinging with a capsule collection of six exclusive pieces by Mark McNairy. Though they aren’t all 100% up my alley, they’re all damn fine items in their own right (just because I personally can’t pull off digi-camo cargos doesn’t mean there aren’t those out there who can rock them with panache). And fully half of the pieces–the three you see above–are spot on for my tastes. They’d also play perfectly together in a single outfit. That is pretty awesome.

And it’s also the inspiration for the debut installment of a new segment showcasing pieces that just beg to be worn together. We’ll see how often it actually happens (hopefully a lot), but that’s a question for later. For now, welcome to Outfitted: Run of the Mill Shop + Mark McNairy Edition.

In terms of my reasoning for this outfit, I just think it’s a great combination of old-school inspiration and modern execution. All the pieces are, at their core at least, classics: You’ve got an oxford, chinos, and longwings. But there are definitely some twists and turns along the way. And that’s what keeps it interesting.

Let’s start from the top.

The Red University Stripe Oxford ($135) is actually genuinely classic through and through. The ROTM/McNairy team just had the presence of mind to give it to us in a decent fit and Japanese cotton. Both a plus.

It’s also kind of an anchor piece for the entire look. Because it isn’t too far out, you’re able to get a bit more leeway on the pants and shoes without coming off garish or looking like you’re trying too hard.

And that leeway is a good thing, because the shirt allows the Navy 8 Pocket Cargo ($238) to pop instead of fighting with them for attention. The reason I dig the navy version so much and wouldn’t go for the aforementioned digital camo version of these pants is because I tend to feel that a piece should usually only push the envelope in one aspect. Lots of adornment or general construction-based detailing like, say, 8 freaking pockets? Probably want to go for a more subdued hue like navy.

But the digi camo is pretty much balls out on both fronts, and that’s too much for me. Now, this is just my own personal take on how I’d choose to dress myself. Some people can really rock the go-to-hell combo of eye-blistering print and intense construction. A fuck-ton of pockets on an otherwise classic navy chino is enough of a twist for for me though.

Aside from the way they work in terms of demand for attention, I think the proportions of the shirt and pants match well. Both seem pretty damn trim, and the shirt looks to have long enough tails that you could tuck it in to a low-rise pant (8″ in the front) without constantly having it slip out. Practicality!

On to the shoes: the Loden Green Suede Longwing ($350):

Yes, they’re green suede, which you’d think would be kind of nuts until you see them and realize it just happens to look really good and notice that this particular Loden Green pairs very well with the navy pants. The natural crepe sole is so neutral that it could work with just about anything. But here it lightens up the look of the shoe overall while giving them a sort of military-explorer feel (desert boots anyone?) to go with the cargos. The round hiking boot style laces keep the explorer-cum-style-junkie vibe going all the way to the end.

In terms of construction: it’s all gonna be top notch. The shirt and pants are both made in the USA, the shoes are bench made in England and feature a Goodyear welt, and I’ve heard nothing but good things about McNairy’s quality standards.

Get yourself over to the site to check out the other pieces (there are double monks) before they sell out. Which I’m pretty certain they’re all going to do.

—Jonathan

(Images courtesy of Run of the Mill Shop)

Ed’s Note: I’m usually anti-cargo and much more for shortwings than longwings, so I’m especially impressed by how much I like these pieces. Well played indeed, ROTM and Mr. McNairy.

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